I’m travelling solo around Africa on a Swedish registered Honda Africa Twin (2003). I carry a Swedish passport. My Swedish insurance is valid for Morocco only. I travel without a carnet.

Note that the information regarding border crossings and visa applications is based on my own experience and is not set in stone.

I'm using the term Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for the document allowing my motorcycle into a country. This is also called:
Passavant or Laissez-Passer in french speaking countries.
Licença de Importação Temporária in portugese speaking countries.

Motorcycle Registration Document = Certificat d'Immatriculation in French, which is informally known as "Carte Grise".

UPDATES: Although these pages describe my own experiences I will throw in an occasional update if important information reaches my ears during this trip. However, as time goes by, the information below will inevitably be less and less up to date and updates will lose their relevance, but still I think this information will provide a fair picture of African bureaucracy for quite some time to come.

 

 

34. TANZANIA - June 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Visa obtained at the border
Embassy/consulate location: -
Duration:
90 days
Entries: Multiple entries
Cost: 50 USD (46 €)
Handling time: -
Valid from:
Entry date
Accompanying documentation: Passport

Border crossing: Songwe (Karonga, Malawi) - Kasumulu (Mbeya, Tanzania)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

At the Malawi border crossing I got stamped out at the immigration window. There was no gate pass so I didn't bother visiting the customs window.

Across the bridge over the border river (Songwe) was the Tanzania border post. I bought a 90 day multiple entry visa at the cost of 50 USD at immigration. There was no 30 day option. It took five minutes and was just a stamp in the passport. I got a formal receipt. Customs was at a counter in the same room. They issued a TIP free of charge valid for 60 days. First they only wanted to give me 30 days but it was not hard to convince them to give me 60 days. They said the TIP can be extended at any customs office in the country.
I was not required to buy an insurance by the customs officer but he said that the police may ask for it at checkpoints. As is common at border posts where an insurance is "required" I was approached by a representative from an insurance company as soon as I parked by the immigrations building. See below.

TIP: 60 days / 0 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: "Mandatory" insurance was issued at the border crossing by an insurance company called Comesa which had a small office on the far side of the gate. They offered a Tanzania only insurance, 30 days, 50 USD but also offered a much better option in form of a multi country insurance covering: Burundi, Congo, DRC, Djibouti, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Kenya, Libya, Malawi, Rwanda, Sudan, Swaziland, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe. This will cover my remaining stay in Africa. I was first offered a price of 70 USD for 3 months or 140 USD for 6 months. I negotiated the price to 100 USD for 6 months. The insurance document was called "Carte Jaune - Yellow Card" and was stamped and signed.
Total cost at the border: Visa, 90 days, multiple entry, 50 USD (46 €) + Multi country insurance, 100 USD (92 €). Total 138 €.
Time to cross the border: 1½ hours

All fees were payable in USD or Tanzania Shillings. There were friendly and reasonable money changers at the border that changed my remaining Kwacha. There was also an ATM hidden away to the side.

Checkpoints: There are a lot of police along the roads but I was only stopped a few times for checking my driving license. For the second time I was asked to produce an international driving license but again I referred to the motorcycle icon and the date on the back of my Swedish license and said that only a stupid person would not understand that so I was let go.

Speed traps: I saw a couple of police men with speed guns along the main roads but was never "shot" at. Other drivers seem to slow down in 50 zones which indicate that caution is relevant. A foreigner told me that in some cases the police hire locals to handle the speed guns (equipped with a DSLR camera) and then phone the police that waits down the road to collect the fee.

 

 

35. Special Information: ZANZIBAR - June 2016


This is information regarding bringing a motorcycle to the islands of Zanzibar.

Zanzibar is the collective name of the islands of Unguja (many times referred to as just Zanzibar) and Pemba including surrounding small islands. Even if Zanzibar is part of Tanzania the Zanzibar Islands are a semi autonomous region with a few rules that are good to now about if you bring a vehicle over.

Visa: The Tanzanian visa is valid on the islands and does not need to be renewed when going back, even if it is a single entry visa. There is no immigration to go through on the mainland but your passport will be stamped at immigration when entering the islands.

Documents needed at arrival: Passport

Foreigner Driving Permit: On the Zanzibar Islands all foreigners driving a vehicle are required to obtain a special driving permit. An international driving license will not suffice. The "Foreigner Driving Permit" is just a simple, piece of paper with a photo and a validity date, i.e. just another money making scheme. I was caught unawares of this at one of the numerous police checkpoints. The police had the correct page in the code of traffic immediately at hand and completely prematurely threatened me with both the court of law and a month in jail if I didn't pay the court fees. After half an hour of heated debate I was allowed to go if I promised to go straight to the Department of Transport and Licensing in Zanzibar City to get the permit.
Two photos are needed when applying for the permit.

The Department of Transport and Licensing is located in a concrete shack on a sandy back street in the Mwanakwerekwe area of Zanzibar City
(S6° 10.652' E39° 13.352'). The entrance is through a corrugated sheet metal fence. I paid 15 000 TZS
(8 USD) for a one month permit valid for all of Zanzibar including Pemba Island. This was the minimum fee.

Ferry schedule
The main RORO car ferry plying the route: Dar Es Salaam - Zanzibar City - Mkoani (Pemba) - Zanzibar City - Dar Es Salam is called Azam Sealink. In June 2016 it ran on the following schedule:
Dar Es Salaam - Zanzibar City: Tuesday and Friday 19:45, arriving in Zanzibar City early the following morning.
Zanzibar City - Mkoani (Pemba): Wednesday and Saturday 06:00, 6-7 hours.
Mkoani - Zanzibar City: Thursday and Sunday 06:30, 6-7 hours.
Zanzibar City - Dar Es Salaam: Thursday and Sunday 20:30, arriving in Dar Es Salaam early the following morning.

As the loading process was chaotic the real departure time was up to 3 hours later. Ticket sales people said that large motorbikes can be loaded on some of the fast passenger ferries. I also saw a second, smaller car ferry in these waters but I have no information about it.

Ferry cost
Passenger fare: Each leg of the journey cost 35 USD for non residents.
Motorcycle fare: Each leg of the journey cost 100 000 TZS (45 USD)
Port tax (wharfage charge) Dar Es Salaam: 22 300 TZS (10 USD)
Port tax (wharfage charge) Zanzibar City: 10 000 TZS (4:50 USD)
Port tax (wharfage charge) Mkoani: 3 000 TZS (1:50 USD)

Port tax is paid both on arrival and departure. When I travelled from Mkoani to Dar Es Salaam via Zanzibar City, I did not offload my bike in Zanzibar City and did not have to pay the port tax.

Tickets Dar Es Salaam
Passenger tickets are sold either at the main ticket booth (building with blue windows, S6° 49.203' E39° 17.280') at the ferry port in Dar or at any of several independent ticket agents nearby. Ticket for my motorcycle was a bit more difficult as no one seemed to know the price. After some confusion I got a total price at the main ticket office of 150 USD. At one of the independent agents I got a price of 135 USD. There were three separate costs adding up to this: 35 USD passenger ticket, 80 USD motorcycle fare (based on a volume of 2 cubic meters), 20 USD port tax (wharfage charge).
It was probably more costly going through one of the agents as I paid less going the opposite way. The easiest way to deal with the ticket and motorcycle fare is to buy a regular passenger ticket at the main ticket office, then show up with the bike at the port
(S6° 49.301' E39° 17.225') an hour prior to the departure time and agree on a price for the motorcycle directly with the Azam man responsible for loading the cargo. He's monitoring and collect charges for the cargo that gets loaded onto the ship. He is found on the boat ramp. Port tax is paid when entering the port area. You will be told how and where. Passport and motorcycle registration document are needed. Coming back I paid 100 000 TZS (45 USD) for the bike and 22 300 TZS (10 USD) in port tax.

Tickets Zanzibar Town
There is a main ticket office by a roundabout at the ferry port in Zanzibar Town (S6° 09.412' E39° 11.653'). There are also independent ticket agents across the street. To get a cost for the bike was impossible as nobody knew. I was told to arrange this on the day of departure with the ferry operators. There was a person responsible for the cargo charges on the ferry and he gave me the price of 100 000 TZS (45 USD). I paid him cash on the spot and got a receipt.

Tickets Mkoani
I was shown a small ticket booth by a local guy located on a side street up in the Mkoani city center (up a couple of flights of concrete stairs, S5° 21.679' E39° 39.092'). I'm not sure if this is the official place or a ticket agent. Ticket price was the normal 35 USD. I asked for a ticket to Dar Es Salaam but they could only sell tickets to Zanzibar City, there I had to buy a new ticket.

Is it worth bringing a motorcycle over to the islands? Driving on the Unguja Island is not very interesting. There are few places where the sea is in view and it is generally flat and the roads are straight and uninteresting so, no, it is not worth it. The Pemba Island on the other hand has lovely curving roads that go up and down through a very beautiful countryside with a lush foliage and rice paddies in between the hills. Yes, definitely worth it. Pemba is a lot less developed with only a handful of beach resorts compared to Ungujas' 300. There is no lack of gas stations on either island and the price of gas is just slightly higher than in Dar.
There is plenty of public transport as well as taxis on both islands. In Zanzibar City it is possible to rent 250 cc motorcycles (20 USD per day). High speed passenger ferries between Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar City make the crossing in less than two hours. Flying to either of the islands is a viable option as it is not too expensive.

Ferry Mkoani - Tanga
At the time I was visiting there was a "regular" car ferry called "Mandeleo" going between Tanga on the mainland and Mkoani on Pemba. It was scheduled to leave Mkoani every Sunday but the Sunday I wanted to go it was cancelled due to lack of passengers/cargo. There is a ticket booth in the Mkoani port outside the gates (S5° 21.545' E39° 38.728'). It seemed like passages were sporadic and may cease altogether.

Dhows Wete - Tanga
There are unscheduled dhows (local wooden sailing boats) going between Wete in the north of Pemba and Tanga. I was told by a owner that my motorcycle (Africa Twin, 250 kg) could be loaded by hand onto the boat but it would require a number of porters. I was quoted a price of 200 000 TZS (90 USD) for the bike alone before negotiations. You read that the dhows are not very safe and that foreigners are not allowed to travel on them (mainly between Dar and Zanzibar City).

 

 

36. RWANDA (1) - July 2016


Visa:
Place of application: EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) obtained at the border. Valid for Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya.
Embassy/consulate location: -
Duration:
90 days
Entries: Multiple entries. I was told that the multiple entries visa is valid even if visiting countries outside the three EATV countries, for example if I wanted to make detours into Burundi or DRC.
Cost: 100 USD (92 €)
Handling time: -
Valid from: Entry date

Accompanying documentation: Passport

Border crossing: Rusumo

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

This was a new and very positive experience. Tanzania and Rwanda have developed a "one stop shop" crossing the border at Rusumo. One only has to stop at one border post where both countries's business is handled. When crossing into Rwanda you stop at the Rwanda side and when crossing into Tanzania you stop at the Tanzania side. Excellent!

The facilities at this border crossing were new, large and effective. I only had to visit one big hall where there was a window for Tanzania immigration next to a window for Rwanda immigration. There was a window for Tanzania customs next to a window for Rwanda customs. There was also a bank window where all payments were handled.

The routine was as follows: 1. Stamp out at the Tanzania immigration window. 2. Ask for an EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) at the Rwanda immigration window. I got a small piece of paper 3. Go to Rwanda customs window, present the small piece of paper and obtain a paper with a reference number. 4. Present paper with reference number and make payment of 100 USD at the bank window. 5. Present receipt for payment at Rwanda immigration window and obtain EATV. 6. Go back to Rwanda customs window and ask for a TIP. 7. Make payment for TIP of 15 000 RWF (18 €) at the bank window. 8. Present payment reciept at Rwanda customs window and obtain TIP.
It sounds complicated but instructions were clear and there was kind of a queue system. Payments could be done in Tanzania Shillings, Rwanda Franc, US Dollar and Euros. Bank cards were not accepted. I chose to pay for the visa in Euros but had to pay 100 Euros plus one US Dollar as they had a very poor exchange rate for Euros. There were plenty of money changers at the border. I got a good rate for my TZS after a little negotiation.

Before I could leave the border area I was subjugated to a thorough search of my entire luggage. This took over half an hour. This is (only) the second time on this trip that I've been scrutinized to this extent (the other was in Gambia).

TIP: 14 days / 18 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for
Total cost at the border:
EATV 92 € + TIP 18 €. Total: 110 €
Time to cross the border: 1½ hours

Checkpoints: Many checkpoints but I was only stopped at a couple of occasions.

Speed traps: I saw a few speed traps, was even caught speeding at one. The speed gun showed that I had done 67 km/h in a 40 zone (lots of 40 zones in Rwanda). The police said they would hold on to my drivers license (good to have home made copies) until I had paid the fee at a specified bank and returned with a receipt. However, it was Sunday and I had a long way to drive and bla, bla, bla. After a while they gave me back my license and let me go.

Withdraw USD from ATM: In one of the ATM's just outside the entrance to Nakumatt Supermarket (just next to Bourbon Café) they had the option of chosing to withdraw money in US Dollars.

 

 

37. BURUNDI - August 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Kigali
Embassy/consulate location:
S1° 56.491' E30° 05.189'
Duration:
30 days
Entries: Multiple entries
Cost: 50 USD (46 €)
Handling time: 12 (!) days
Valid from:
I was asked what date I wanted the visa to start.
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 1 photo, copy of yellow fever vaccination certificate.

The lady at the counter at the Burundi embassy in Kigali was friendly and answered my questions with patience. She said that it takes two weeks to get an approval for a visa from the Burundi authorities. The visa itself is issued at the embassy. I did not have to pay or leave my passport. Once the approval came through I received an email (or a phone call if you have a phone) and could go back to the embassy to have the visa issued. I got the email twelve days after the application day. There were very few people at the embassy.

Border crossing: (Kigali, Rwanda) - Gasenyi (Kirundu, Burundi)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

Gasenyi was a quiet border crossing. I arrived at a long beige house. At the far end were two windows next to each other; Rwandan immigration and Burundi immigration. Stamp out, stamp in, no problems. On the opposite side of the building were customs. I was issued a Burundi TIP for 30 000 BIF (17 €) which was valid for 30 days. I never bothered returning my Rwanda TIP as it didn't feel necessary. There were plenty of money changers at the border who gave a much better rate (about 30%) than the official bank rate.

TIP: 30 days, 17 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for
Total cost at the border: 18 €
Time to cross the border: 1 hour

Checkpoints: There were a lot of police checkpoints in Burundi, most of them with a rope across the road. Some were manned by ordinary people, could have been local tax checkpoints. I was stopped quite frequently and asked for drivers license and passport but was waved through at most checkpoints. There were never any requests for "gifts".

Speed traps: None.

Gasoline: Many (I would say most) of the fueling stations in Burundi had no fuel but there were people selling fuel by the bottle here and there. I found one gas station that had fuel and that was enough to take me through the country.

 

 

38. RWANDA (2) - August 2016


Visa: For the second visit to Rwanda I used the 3 month EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) with multiple entries that I obtained at the border crossing into Rwanda from Tanzania on my first entry to the country (see #36 above).

Border crossing: (Kayanza, Burundi) - Akanyaru (Huye/Butare, Rwanda)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

This was a normal two-stop border crossing on either side of a bridge across the Akanyaru River. On the Burundi side there was a boom across the road, next to it was an immigrations widow with a short queue where I got stamped out. I didn't see any customs office but before the guards lifted the boom they wanted to see my Burundi TIP. They didn't want to keep it.

On the Rwandan side I got stamped in after queuing for two minutes. Next to the immigrations window was the customs office. I was directed to go there. In Rwanda they have their TIP act in good order, everything is registered in their computer system so there is no idea to try to skip anything or overstay the TIP validity even by one day or you will be penalized which I was to experience. When I left Rwanda to do a short tour of Burundi I neglected to leave my TIP at customs. Upon my return to Rwanda they immediately noticed this on their computer. The penalty for overstaying the TIP is 30 USD for the first month. This sum will increase by each subsequent month. I tried everything out of my extensive "African persuasion bag" but as my TIP had no exit registration in their system and the 14 days had by now expired, it was highlighted in red on the computer screen. There was no way my persuasion efforts could make them remove this red flag without me paying the 30 USD. It's all in their computer system. If they would remove the red flag without having the 30 USD to show for it, they would be in trouble with their internal auditors. After a considerable time they gave me a seven day temporary TIP which I had to take to the customs HQ in Kigali to be extended and to remove the red flag. They said an extension would not cost anything. I accepted this which was a big mistake.

TIP Extension
In reality the TIP extension also cost 30 USD and it took me 2½ hours to have this done in Kigali. I should have paid the 30 dollar penalty at the border and be rid of it.
The TIP extension is done at RRD (Rwanda Revenue Department) / Department des Douanes in the Gikondo region of Kigali (S1° 58.638' E30° 05.107'). Beyond the small car park there is a building where the payment is done at a bank through the first door on the left. But first I had to go to the customs office which was situated past the RRD building, up a few steps, past a security check (where I had to leave my passport) and into a large parking lot for trucks. In the middle of this parking lot is the small customs office (S1° 58.684' E30° 04.985') where I had to wait in line to enter an office with "Manager" written on the door. The manager told me I had to pay 30 USD for a TIP extension at the bank in the RRD building and provide the payment receipt together with copies of: Passport, driver's license, motorcycle insurance and motorcycle registration document. He wrote instructions on my temporary TIP and sent me to the RRD building where I first had to go to a window to get an "Advice Details" document from the RRD which I had to provide the bank to make the payment. I could only pay with cash USD, neither RWF or bank cards were accepted. Immediately outside the gates was a place that made copies of the documents I needed. Then back to the queue at the customs manager's office who issued a TIP extension and cancelled my red flag in their system.

TIP: 7 days / 18 €.
TIP Extension: 14 days / 30 USD (27 €)
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for
Total cost at the border:
TIP 15 000 RWF (18 €).
Time to cross the border: 2 hours

Checkpoints: See #36.

Speed traps: See #36.

 

 

39. Special Information: Tours to the DRC from RWANDA - August 2016


To go across the border to DRC and visit the spectacular Nyiragongo Volcano with the world's largest lava lake or making a gorilla tracking tour, if a permit can't be obtained in Rwanda, is quite easy and painless. A DRC visa can be obtained online and tours can be booked at: www.visitvirunga.org.

Visa: The Congolese wildlife authority (ICCN) has an agreement with the Congolese immigration service (DGM) that facilitates a simplified on-line visa available especially for tours to the DRC from Rwanda. The visa is valid for 14 days, single entry. One has to cross the border at the "Grande Barrière border post" in Gisenyi/Goma. Obviously, one must have a return visa to Rwanda. A three month EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) with multiple entries is good to have.

The visa procedure is as follows:
1. Book a tour or a hotel night online with Virunga National Park Tourism Office at www.visitvirunga.org.
2. You will get a booking confirmation including an order/reference number by an automatic reply by mail within minutes.
3. Apply for a visa also at www.visitvirunga.org. You need to include your booking order/reference number.
4. You will receive a visa confirmation by mail within 14 days. I applied for the visa on a Monday morning and received the visa confirmation late in the evening the following Thursday. Email contact with Virunga National Park Tourism Office may speed things up.

The "Grande Barrière border post" is on the road closest to Lake Kivu, right on the shore of the lake. To be eligible for a visa one must first book a tour or make a hotel reservation with Virunga National Park Tourism Office. Their offers include overnight tours to Nyiragongo Volcano (300 USD) and single day gorilla tracking tours (500 USD). They also arrange transport from-to the border post at a cost. One can stay at any of a number of hotels in Gisenyi within walking distance or a short moto-taxi ride from the border post.

As I got a 14 day visa for the notoriously difficult visa-country of DRC I thought that I should take advantage of this opportunity and use those 14 days, bringing my motorcycle with me. I was however discouraged by the current hostile security situation in the region and did not carry through these plans. I left my bike at the hotel in Gisenyi. You are not allowed to enter the DRC at any other border post, but leaving the DRC elsewhere may be possible. I can't see a problem with this as long as you have an onward visa. My initial plan, which I didn't pursue, was to drive to Beni and cross into Uganda from there. As it appears, Beni is the very center of civil unrest and when I passed the border between Rwanda and Uganda at Cyanika, I was told by the customs official that many people from the DRC go through Rwanda and Uganda to Beni rather than driving between Goma and Beni in the DRC. This may be due to both road conditions and the security situation.

Border crossing: Gisenyi (Rwanda) - Goma (DRC)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, printed visa confirmation, (printed tour or hotel booking confirmation).

 

 

40. UGANDA - August 2016


Visa: For Uganda I used the 3 month EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) with multiple entries that I obtained at the border crossing into Rwanda from Tanzania (see #36 above).

Border crossing: Cyanika (Musanze, Rwanda) - Cyanika (Kisoro, Uganda)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document, motorcycle insurance, driving license.

I arrived at a boom across the road. To the left was Rwandan customs where I got my TIP cleared. Before passing the boom I had to register my travel info in a ledger in a small hut. Just after the first boom there was a second boom where I had to give my travel info to a lady sitting by a house. Just on the other side of the second boom were both Rwanda and Uganda immigrations in the same building on the left hand side. At the Uganda immigrations office I was asked if 1 month would be ok. I asked for two months and got it straight away. (That was exactly what I had left on my 3 month EATV.) When stamped out and stamped in I went to Uganda customs across the road. I was issued a TIP at the cost of 68 000 UGX (22 €). It was valid for 30 days and I was told it could be extended at any customs office for 2x30 days. Before I could leave I had to register my travel info at a tiny, yellow police hut on the left side of the road. I received a small piece of paper which I left with the guard at the exit boom.

TIP: 30 days / 22 €.
TIP Extension:The TIP can be extended 2x30 days at any customs office.
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for but I was told it was required when I asked about it.
Total cost at the border:
TIP 68 000 UGX (22 €).
Time to cross the border: 2 hours

Checkpoints: I wasn't stopped at any checkpoints.

Speed traps: None

 

 

41. KENYA - September 2016


Visa: For Kenya I used the 3 month EATV (East Africa Tourist Visa) with multiple entries that I obtained at the border crossing into Rwanda from Tanzania (see #36 above).

Border crossing: Malaba

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

Malaba is the main border crossing along the busy road between Nairobi and Kampala. Despite a long line of trucks on the Kenyan side and major road works right at the border, there were almost no queues. Both Ugandan and Kenyan immigrations and customs errands were handled in the same building. Immigration consisted of two quick stamps in the passport. I returned my TIP at the Ugandan customs without hassle. Getting a Kenyan TIP should have been a quick matter if it wasn't for the mobile payment method (MPESA, imposed by the EU I was told). I have no phone but I could pay the customs officer (20 USD or 2030 KES) and he would do the payment through his phone. It was just that he had problems getting the payment through the system, whether it was a MPESA problem or the customs guy that didn't know how to do it, I had to wait for three hours before the payment showed up on their computer system and a TIP could be issued. Otherwise the border crossing would have taken half an hour in total. I asked for 40 days TIP (the reminder of my EATV) which I was granted. Up to three months may (or may not) be possible if asking nicely.

There were money changers at the border.

TIP: 40 days / 20 USD (2030 KES).
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for at the border but it is required in Kenya.
Total cost at the border: TIP 20 USD (2030 KES).
Time to cross the border: 3½ hours

Checkpoints: There are quite a few checkpoints in Kenya but I was only stopped twice for general bike talk, no checking of papers.

Speed traps: You may see a speed trap but it is rare.

Note: By law, it is compulsory to wear a hi-viz west or similar when driving a motorcycle in Kenya. However, I passed numerous checkpoints both on the inter-city roads and in Nairobi without wearing one and I was never stopped.

 

 

42. ETHIOPIA - September 2016


Visa:
Place of application:
Nairobi, Kenya.
Embassy/consulate location: S1° 17.186' E36° 48.562' (Visa section), S1° 17.262' E36° 48.536' (ambassador's office).
Duration: 3 months
Entries: Single entry
Cost: 60 USD
Handling time: 4 days
Valid from: Date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 1 photo, LOI from the passport holders embassy, confirmation from the Ethiopians ambassador's office.

I applied for an Ethiopian Visa in Nairobi, Kenya in September 2016. During some years before the summer of 2016 visas were only issued to residents of Kenya at the Nairobi embassy. Everyone else had to apply in their home country which meant sending the passport by courier mail back and forth. Since sometime during the summer 2016 they have eased these rules, at least for certain nationalities, Sweden being among them. If your country is normally favored at embassies, you will probably be granted a visa by the Ethiopian embassy in Nairobi, at least until they change the rules next time.

The visa process is lengthy and consists of several steps. Count on at least three working days, for me it took four. This is how I did it:

Step 1: I visited the Ethiopian embassy at the consular section at the State House Cre (S1° 17.186' E36° 48.562' open times, mon-fri 09:00-12:00. However I saw people with application forms also in the afternoon.) I was told that I needed a confirmation from the Ethiopian ambassador's office on the opposite side of the embassy premises. It is the same premises but accessed from State House Ave (S1° 17.262' E36° 48.536').

Step 2: At the gate on the State House Ave. I conducted my business through a window in the gate house. I was not allowed inside. The woman in the gate house made a phone call to the secretary of the ambassador who told me that I needed a "Letter of Introduction" from the Swedish embassy stating that I am a Swedish citizen including my name and passport number and a request for assistance from the Ethiopian embassy. This is what the letter from the Swedish embassy said in exact words:

"At the request of Mr Anders Bråhn, we write to confirm that he is a Swedish citizen holding a Swedish passport with passport number XXXXXXXX.
Any assistance given to him would be highly appreciated."

That was all. It had to be stamped and signed. I asked specifically if it had to be signed by the ambassador or by anyone at the embassy. Any signature from the embassy was sufficient. Note: that an Israeli guy I met was told that he needed a signature from the Israeli ambassador himself.

Step 3: I went to the Swedish embassy where they had never heard about such "follies". I was first denied the letter but after speaking to the embassy secretary and explained my case in detail I was granted the letter. I had to pay 150 SEK (17 €) at a bank. I have been told that the British embassy issues such letters for £20 while the German Embassy do not issue such letters at all, at least in this point in time.

Step 4: I went back to the Ethiopian embassy at the State House Ave. where I left the letter and my passport at the gate house. I was told to leave my phone number and they would call me within two hours. I didn't have a phone (I got a phone number to call myself) and it was late in the day so I returned the following day.

Step 5: I picked up my passport in the gate house at the State House Ave. together with the introduction letter, now signed by the secretary of the ambassador, indicating 90 days.

Step 6: I went around to the back side of the embassy to the consular section where I was told that I could get either a 30 day visa for 40 USD or a 90 day visa for 60 USD. The visa days start ticking when issued. A multiple entry visa was totally unthinkable.
I was asked to fill out an application form including a hotel address and phone number. I picked one of the major hotels in Addis Ababa off of my GPS. A photo and a copy of the passport is needed (they make this at the embassy for a few shillings).

Step 7: The payment is made at any CBA (Commercial Bank of Africa) branch. The closest one is located ten minutes walk from the embassy (S1° 17.168' E36° 48.800').

Step 8: I went back to the embassy with the payment receipt (at 11:30) and was told to come back at 14:00 to pick up my passport and visa.

Step 9: I was back at the embassy at 14:00 where my passport including visa was waiting for me.

For efficiency one could skip Step 1 and Step 2 and get the introduction letter beforehand and then go straight to the gate at the State House Ave. Taking a calculated risk one could even make the payment in advance eliminating Step 7 and Step 8. The only payment instructions I got was:
Bank: CBA (Commercial Bank of Africa) Any branch.
Account holder: Ethiopian Embassy
Account number: 6549380043
That was enough for making the payment. I could not pay with VISA card but Kenyan Shillings were accepted.

Note: US dollars are difficult to obtain in Ethiopia. The maximum amount is normally $150 and can only be obtained at the head office at large banks in Addis Ababa and one must provide a flight ticket and withdrawal slips. It is said that this is a time consuming procedure. There is however a black market in Addis Ababa where Ethiopian Birr can easily be changed to US dollars. I got a acceptable rate at one of the small stalls along the Ras Desta Damtew Street (N9° 00.960' E38° 45.350'). It cost me about 10% in commission compared to the official internet rate. Some say that this can be risky and that the money changers are in cohorts with the police to set you up. I changed several times and didn't have any problems. There were big bundles of money in black plastic bags changing hands and the shop owner had a robust safe below his counter. There was even a motorcycle police changing money at the same time as me.

Border crossing: Moyale

Documents needed at the border: Passport, vehicle registration document.

The Moyale border crossing was surrounded by a big road works. The Kenyan immigration and customs were in two buildings facing each other on the right hand side, not in the main building where you'd think it would be. I stamped out and returned my TIP quick and easy.
The Ethiopian immigration (N3° 31.694' E39° 03.184') was half way up a short incline on the right hand side. I got stamped in. No problem (despite that it was lunch time). The Ethiopian customs office (N3° 31.829' E39° 03.146') was well hidden on the right hand side of the main road through Moyale about 200 meters from immigrations. There is a large light blue sign by the road but finding the word customs is not easy. The customs office is through a small alley. I had to wait for the lunch break to finish. To my surprise I got an 84 days TIP at no cost. The 84 days were what was left of my 90 days visa.

TIP: 84 days (extent of visa) / 0 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not needed
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Not asked for
Total cost at the border:
0 €
Time to cross the border: 1½ hours

Checkpoints: There were few checkpoints along the roads. I was only stopped at a couple just before the Sudanese border. After the state of emergency had been announced I saw a slight increase in military checkpoints but the were not interested in tourists.

Note: Motorcycles are not allowed onto the Addis-Adama Expressway south of Addis Ababa. They are really strict about this, no matter if you have a big and fast bike.

 

 

43. (SOMALILAND) - October 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
Embassy/consulate location: N9° 00.055' E38° 47.230'
Duration: 1 month
Entries: Single entry
Cost: 70 USD
Handling time: On the spot
Valid from: Date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 1 photo.

If all visas were this simple, travelling in Africa would be a breeze. Somaliland is technically part of Somalia but it is de facto a country of its own even if it is not internationally recognized as such. In contrast to other parts of Somalia it is at this point in time perfectly safe travelling in Somaliland. Somaliland and Somalia have separate embassies in Addis Ababa.

The Somaliland embassy in Addis Ababa is located at (N9° 00.055' E38° 47.230'). (Note that various maps has it at incorrect locations.) There are signs from both Djibouti Street and Bl_03_534 Street. Access is easier from the latter. A one month single entry visa cost 70 USD and starts at the date of issue. Longer visas are available. They asked me to pay in US dollars but when I said I didn't have any, Ethiopian Birr were accepted. I filled out a simple form without "impossible" questions and had to provide a passport copy and a photo. The visa was issued while I waited. It took less than 30 minutes. I was even offered coffee.

Due to escalating unrest in Ethiopia including introduction of a state of emergency I decided not to visit Somaliland and Djibouti as I was unsure if I would be able to get back into Ethiopia to continue my journey north.

 

 

44. (DJIBOUTI) - October 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
Embassy/consulate location: N8° 59.640' E38° 46.670'
Duration: 1 month
Entries: Single entry
Cost: 90 USD
Handling time: Same day
Valid from: Date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 2 photos, hotel reservation, copy of motorcycle registration (or Carnet if available).

At the Djibouti embassy in Addis Ababa they first said that they required a letter of introduction issued by my embassy but then decided that a hotel booking would suffice. They also required a passport copy, two photos and a copy of my motorcycle registration document. I was not allowed to pay in Ethiopian Birr; USD or EUR were the only acceptable currencies. The embassy is open for visa applications between 09:00-11:30. The visa is ready to be picked up the same day in the afternoon, after 14:30. A one month, single entry visa cost 90 USD.

Note: The female manager of the visa section has a somewhat confrontational attitude. Keep calm.

Note: The staff at the Djibouti embassy told me that it may be possible to get a Djibouti visa at the border.

Due to escalating unrest in Ethiopia including introduction of a state of emergency I decided not to visit Somaliland and Djibouti as I was unsure if I would be able to get back into Ethiopia to continue my journey north.

 

 

45. SUDAN - October 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
Embassy/consulate location: N9° 00.375' E38° 44.695'
Duration: 2 week transit visa
Entries: Single entry
Cost: 68 USD
Handling time: 2 days
Valid from: Valid for one month from date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, LOI, Egyptian visa.

A normal Sudanese tourist visa is an extremely lengthy and complicated process. People usually go for the two week transit visa for 68 USD which is readily issued.

Sudanese "sponsor"
I was asked to provide, passport, passport copy, a letter from a Sudanese "sponsor" which could be a simple hotel reservation from a hotel in Sudan, including the name and phone number of the hotel owner. An online hotel booking will probably not suffice. One need to contact a hotel in Sudan (Khartoum) and ask them to send a hotel reservation for the entire duration of the visa. The dates are not critical, they are only for visa purposes. The important thing is that the reservation includes the details of the hotel plus name and phone number of the manager. A stamp and a signature always helps. Otherwise it doesn't need to be very fancy. I applied for my visa in the morning and picked it up in the afternoon the following day.

Note: Payment is strictly in US dollars, not even Euros are accepted.

Border crossing: Metema (Ethiopia) - Gallabat (Sudan)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, Vehicle registration document + copy, Carnet, Insurance.

The Ethiopian border post was just before the border bridge. Customs was on the right side of the road by a gate with a rope across the road. I left my TIP. They required a copy of the vehile registration document. Ethiopian immigration was on the left side of the road just after the rope but before the bridge. I was stamped out without hesitation.

The Sudan immigration was immediately after the bridge on the left hand side of the road, not very visible. I was stamped in after filling out an arrival form. It included the name and phone number of my "sponsor" in Sudan, i.e. the hotel in Khartoum.
So far,everything went smoothly but when I got to the Sudan customs, fifty meters further down the road from immigrations, also on the left side, everything grounded to a halt. The only person at customs who spoke English was the big boss and he was not available. Long story short; I waited for the big boss for six hours, when he finally arrived I was told that Sudan do not issue any Temporary Import Permits, a Triptyk (Carnet) is mandatory. He mentioned something about paying some kind of importation bond but I never got the full picture.

In the end the big boss made a phone call to the Sudanese Automobile & Touring Club in Khartoum. I talked to an English speaking man by the name of Abu Beyda (phone: 09 12344361). He said he could issue a document that would get my motorcycle into Sudan at a cost of 100 USD. With the help of one of the customs officers I took photos of: the main page of my passport, vehicle registration document, COMESA insurance and Sudan visa, which he sent to Abu Beyda. After a long while (it was now the next day), I got a signed and stamped document with the header: "Certificate of Payment of Duty in Deposit by Tourists and Travellers". There were no values or costs written on it. While speaking to Abu on the phone he asked me to pay the 100 USD to one of the high ranking customs officials at the border. And that was that.

TIP: Not issued
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Required
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: Required (COMESA)
Total cost at the border: 100 USD
Time to cross the border: 28 hours

Registration
The Sudanese visa must be registered with the central immigrations office in Khartoum within three days of entering the country. The hotel I stayed at (International Guesthouse, former German Guesthouse) took care of this for me. I believe the cost is 430 SDG if you do it yourself. I paid 500 SDG for the hotel to do it. I got a sticker and a stamp in the passport.

Travel and Photo Permit
One also need a special permit for traveling and taking photos in Sudan. This may be checked at police checkpoints. I got a form from my hotel in Khartoum which I filled out, including itinerary and a short list of things I intended to photograph (!). I took the form to the Ministry of Tourism, Antiquities & Wildlife in Khartoum (N15° 34.815' E32° 33.990') where I got it signed and stamped at no cost. You probably get the form there if you don't already have one. Passport copy and a photo are required.
As this permit is issued in Khartoum you must drive without it from the border to the capital. The police seems to be aware of this and I wasn't asked for it. When I drove from Khartoum to Port Sudan I was asked for it a few times. I left a copy with the police if they asked for it. I had made 7-8 copies which was enough. I wasn't asked for it at all checkpoints. Sometimes I was just waived through, at other times they wanted to see my passport.

 

 

46. (EGYPT) - October 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
Embassy/consulate location: N9° 02.770' E38° 45.860'
Duration: 3 months during a 6 month period.
Entries: Multiple
Cost: 1000 Birr (42 €)
Handling time: 3 working days
Valid for: 6 months from date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 2 photos, hotel booking, withdrawal slip of minimum 700 Birr, copy of credit card (back and front), bank statement, yellow fever vaccination card.

The staff at the Egypt embassy in Addis Ababa was very helpful and reasonable. The visa requirements were extensive and the handling time rather long but there was nothing overly difficult and the experience was pleasant. Any single night hotel booking in Egypt is accepted. I used the withdrawal slip (minimum 700 Birr) from a Commercial Bank of Ethiopia ATM. The bank statement I printed from my online bank. There was a note in the embassy stating that the yellow fever vaccination had to be done within the last 10 days. My yellow fever vaccination was over two years old but was accepted. The payment was made in Ethiopian Birr. I was quoted a price of 1500 Birr which I paid when I applied but when I came back to pick up my passport I was returned 400 Birr. The cost written on the visa was 1000 Birr. I had no reason arguing about the missing 100 Birr.
The embassy opening times for visa applications are 09:30-12:00. Pickup time is after 14:30. I applied on a Wednesday morning and picked my passport up on Friday afternoon which they counted as 3 working days.

Note: The application form must include the name and phone number of the hotel where you stay in Addis Ababa.

Note: The handling time for US citizens and Canadians are two weeks.

Entering Egypt without a carnet has always been difficult, time consuming and costly but it has been possible. Sometime during 2016 it appears that the Egyptian government put new and stricter importation rules in place which meant that entering Egypt without a carnet issued in the country where the vehicle is registered is almost impossible. At least, it require measures beoyond reason. One can definitely question if it is worth trying at all. I didn't. I followed the first reports on overlander internet forums and that completely turned me off. Perhaps people will find ways to work around the system so keep an eye on the overlander forums.

If in posession of a carnet issued in the country where the vehicle is registered, entering Egypt should be feasable. Carnets issued in a country other than that where the vehicle is registered were blatantly refused in the end of 2016.

Due to extremely stringent importation regulations put in place during 2016 in Egypt I chose a different route and bypassed the country altogether. Instead of bashing my head against the bureaucratic wall in Wadi Haifa (as well as when exiting the country) I chose to go via Saudi Arabia, Jordan and Israel. At this point in time there are no regular passenger/vehicle RORO ferries from Egypt to Europe but there is a weekly RORO ferry from Haifa to Greece which takes both cars and passengers. This option seemed much more attractive than taking on the Egypt battle.

 

 

47. SAUDI ARABIA - November 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Khartoum, Sudan
(Embassy) Travel agent location: N15° 34.520' E32° 32.815'
Duration: 3 days transit visa
Entries: Single
Cost: 200 USD
Handling time: 3 working days
Valid for: 90 days from date of issue
Accompanying documentation: Passport, copy of passport, 2 photos, (international driving license)

When I arrived at the Saudi Arabian embassy in Khartoum (N15° 34.460' E32° 32.800') one of the guards promptly took me to a travel agency diagonally across the road (N15° 34.520' E32° 32.815'). A sign above the door said: Sky Tours Travel, Tourism & Air Cargo Agency. Here I was informed that a Saudi transit visa could be issued within 3 days. The total cost would be 200 USD broken down into: Saudi embassy charge 90 USD, personal insurance for Saudi Arabia 40 USD (?) and agent fee 70 USD. I gave them as many documents of relevance I had. Im sure an international driving license was not needed but the more documentation the better.
Sky Tours mailed me (they would have called if I'd had a phone) a few questions during the application process; registration number for the bike, occupation and religion. On the last I answered that I am Christian by birth but I do not actively practice any religion. I did not need a visa for Jordan to apply for the Saudi Arabian transit visa as the Jordan visa is issued at the border.

Note: that during the Hajj a Saudi transit visa may not be issued.

Ferry Sawakin (Port Jordan) - Jeddah
Ticket cost: 52 USD (passenger) + 125 USD (motorcycle) = 177 USD (plus agent fees)
Departures: Daily departures in the evening
Duration: 14 hours
Port: The ferry departs from the port in Sawakin NOT from Port Sudan.

Sky Tours in Khartoum sold me the ticket for the ferry between Sawakin and Jeddah operated by Namma Lines. The ticket cost 825 SDG (52 USD) + 200 SDG in booking fee + 250 SDG for Sky Tours. It seems as Sky Tours added an awful lot on both visa and ferry ticket. When I got to Sawakin it turned out that my ticket did not include my motorcycle so I had to buy a second ticket costing 2000 SDG (125 USD). I was charged the same price as for a car as Namma Lines didn't have a separate rate for motorcycles.

There is no need to buy a ticket in Khartoum it can easily be done in Sawakin. The road leading into Sawakin from the main road to Port Sudan is lined with ticket agents. Just ask around until you find an agent that represents the shipping company that runs a ferry on the day you want to travel. The shop fronts all have signs with ferries on them. I was told by a customs officer that there are daily ferries between Sawakin and Jeddah. There are three different ferry companies and all ferries do the journey overnight departing Sawakin in the evening. The Namma Lines ferry departed Sawakin at 20:30 and arrived in Jeddah at 11:30 the following day.

Sudan border post
The staff at the hotel I stayed at in Sawakin (there are several basic hotels) told me to go to the port at 15:00 to clear customs. At the port gate I had to show my tickets and passport. Sudan customs are in a building on the left hand side 50 meters inside the port gate. There were many official helpers around. One of them took my import papers and handled everything at no cost. As a foreigner I was offered to wait (about 45 minutes) in an air conditioned office while my papers were cleared. That I didn't have a carnet, only the import papers from the Sudanese Automobile and Touring Club, was never an issue. I got a paper showing that I had cleared customs which was attached to my motorcycle ticket.

Sudan immigration was another 100 meters further ahead, also on the left. It was not very obvious where to go but I was shown to the rear (exit) entrance of a large departure hall. Inside I was shown to an office where a man in blue uniform took my passport and ticket and helped me through the procedure. First he took me to a copying place where four copies of passport and visas were made. This cost 2 SDG. Secondly I was taken outside the departure hall to a separate building where some sort of departure tax was paid. It cost 21 SDG (1,5 USD). It was legit as everybody was waiting in line with money in hand. I even got one pound back from a twenty and a two pound bill. Thirdly I was taken back into the departure hall where my passport was stamped and I could proceed to the ferry. The man in blue uniform required nothing for his help.

At the ferry I drove the bike on board when I was told to and parked where I was directed, close to a wall. The deck hands later tied a strap around the bike that somewhat would prevent it from falling over in heavy sea. On my crossing the sea was flat as a mirror. I had to leave my passport with the staff before entering the ship. It was returned the next morning after arrival in Jeddah. The Namma Lines ferry was a large ship with two car decks, cabins and a couple of shops selling simple food, drinks, coffee and snacks. I wasn't sure what was included in my ticket but at the reception desk I was told that it provided for a chair only. A man, obviously with authority, at the reception desk promptly wrote something on my ticket and all of a sudden I had a private cabin "complimentary of the company". The cabin had electrical outlet, two berths, bathroom with shower, sit down toilet and hot water. The entire ship was air conditioned. The chair areas were crowded with people sleeping on the floor. One could probably sleep out on deck with a sleeping mattress and sleeping bag.

Saudi Arabia border post
I was not allowed to drive my motorcycle from the ferry to the arrival terminal where the immigration was. All passengers had to go by buss. My passport was scrutinized and I had to explain that I was actually driving a motorcycle to a senior officer but the passport was stamped without fuzz. It was like arriving at an airport terminal.
After exiting the building, customs was located to the right at a gate with a big roof. I was guided and directed where to go and what to do. First I had a TIP issued at no cost. Then I was asked to buy insurance for the motorcycle at a window underneath the big roof. It cost 16 € for one week. Furthermore I had to pay another 62 € for what I assume was a port tax of some sort as it had the logo of the shipping company on it. All documents were in Arabic only. I could pay in US Dollars and everything was orderly and correct. There was no ATM or any banks at the port. In the center of Jeddah there were ATM which accepted VISA and MC.
Everything was finished at 15:00 but the vehicles were not released until 16:30-17:00. I was told by locals that this was standard procedure and had no logical explanation. After locating an ATM in Jeddah, having a meal at McDonalds (yeah) and found my way out of the big city, it was already dark. The first day of my three day transit visa was already at its end.

Crossing Saudi Arabia
The shortest route from Jeddah to Jordan along the coast is 1140 km along a good highway. In theory it is possible to do it in one long, long day but as the ferry arrives at mid day and the arrival procedure takes time one must spend at least one night in Saudi Arabia. I chose to drive for a couple of hours in the dark the first day and stayed at a reasonably priced hotel in Rabigh (Manahil Kingdom Hotel 100 SAR / 25 €, N22° 46.746' E39° 02.305') The highway is lit until King Abdullah Port just before Rabigh. On the second day I drove 650 km to Duba (Zohra Duba Hotel, 150 SAR / 40 €, N27° 21.334' E35° 41.901'). None of the towns and cities along the way was very interesting. I regret that I didn't spent the first night in Jeddah as the city seemed quite nice. I read that the Haql/Al Dorra border is open 24/7 but I have no confirmation of this.

Border crossing: Sawakin (Sudan) - Jeddah (Saudi Arabia)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, ferry tickets, motorcycle registration document

TIP: Duration of stay (3 days), 0 €
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: 16 € / 1 week
Total cost at the border: 80 €
Time to cross the border: 2 hours (Sudan) / 4 hours (Saudi Arabia)

Checkpoints: I was stopped at a few occasions, once by a civil police. The police was very friendly and handed out bottles of water.

 

48. JORDAN - November 2016


Visa:
Place of application: Obtained at the border
Embassy/consulate location: -
Duration: 1 month
Entries: Single
Cost: 0 €
Handling time: -
Valid from: Entry date
Accompanying documentation: Passport

Border crossing: Haql (Saudi Arabia) - Al Dorra (Jordan)

Documents needed at the border: Passport, motorcycle registration document

Quick and efficient border post. The Saudi Arabian post is under a big roof. In the beginning of a large building is the immigration where my passport got a stamp. At the end of the building is customs where my TIP was cleared. The Jordan side is similar. First stop was immigration where I got a visa valid for one month stamped into my passport. It was free. Customs was across the road a bit further on. Before I could go there I had to buy motorcycle insurance in a small building around the corner. There were a few official money changers but no ATM. One month insurance cost 27 JOD (37 €). Customs issued a 1 month TIP for 20 JOD (28 €).

TIP: 1 month / 28 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: 1 month / 37 €
Total cost at the border: 65 €
Time to cross the border: 1 hour

Checkpoints: A few checkpoints, mainly towards the border with Israel.

 

 

49. ISRAEL - November 2016


Visa: Not needed. 3 months at arrival.

Border crossing: North border (Damia Bridge/Sheik Hussein Border, N32° 29.810' E35° 34.530')

I was under the impression that I could cross at the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge (N31° 52.460' E35° 32.450'). Personally I could have crossed there but not with a vehicle. I was referred to the "North Border" 80 km further north.

Documents needed at the border: Passport, motorcycle registration document

At the Jordan side I first came to a checkpoint where my TIP was checked and stamped. Next I came to the customs building. First stop was a security check where my luggage was put through an X-ray machine. The pack boxes were quickly checked. In the middle of the building was a window where my TIP was cleared. At the end of the building I had to pay an "Exit Fee" of 25 JOD (35 €). A bit further ahead on the left side was a large immigration building. Here I paid 10 JOD in departure tax and got my passport stamped.

The Israeli side was serious and strict but the officials were polite and factual. First stop was a pre-security check where the motorcycle, luggage and pack boxes were checked, all while an armed guard watched at a certain distance. When clearance was given I was allowed to drive around to a small hut where an immigration officer asked me several questions: Had I visited Sudan? Yes. Had I visited Saudi Arabia? Yes. Had I visited Egypt? No. But you have an Egypt visa? Yes but only because I needed it to obtain a Sudanese transit visa in Addis Ababa. How long did I intend to stay in Israel? What ship did I intend to leave on? I answered that I would stay a maximum of one month. I got three months stamped onto a slip of paper without asking. No stamp in the passport.
When another clearance was given I could continue to the customs building. Here I offloaded all luggage, including pack boxes, from the bike and put them on a trolley. The complete luggage was run through an X-ray machine while my motorcycle was thoroughly checked in a garage.
Before a TIP could be issued I had to go to a large departure/arrival hall next door to buy insurance. This turned out to be a time consuming task as there was some problem with the computers at the insurance company. After an hour and a half they got insurance from a different company. I'm not sure this had anything to do with it but the one month insurance was prohibitively expensive: 895 NIS (230 €). If I would have thought about it I should have got my Swedish insurance, including a green card, beforehand as this would have covered Israel. Not sure it would have been accepted though. The financial center who sold the insurance also offered an ATM service (50 NIS per withdrawal) and money exchange service. When the insurance had been issued I could get the TIP valid for one month issued at no extra cost.

TIP: 1 month / 0 €
TIP Extension: -
Carnet: Not asked for
International Driving License: Not asked for
Yellow fever vaccination card: Not asked for
Insurance: 1 month / 230 €
Total cost at the border: 278 €
Time to cross the border: 3½ hours

Checkpoints: -

Speed traps: -